For the first time in more than four months, I allowed myself to break out of these four walls for a boerebraai at Middelvlei Wines. The experience was simply magical.
Introduction
Tim and I haven’t had a meal outside The Little House since the start of lock-down in March all those years ago (at least, that’s how it seems). A chance to enjoy a Sunday lunch in the countryside was one that we grabbed with all our hands, even if just for a chance to breathe freely for a few hours.
We headed out to Middelvlei Wines last Sunday and took the scenic Baden Powell Drive along my beloved ocean from the South Peninsula to the heart of Stellenbosch. I couldn’t help but feel heavy as we drove through the hectares of vineyards and passed empty parking lots in front of wine farm tasting rooms, a stark reminder of the alcohol ban imposed as part of the COVID-19 regulations.
Background
Situated in the heart of the Stellenbosch Winelands is where you’ll find Middelvlei Wines, which has been owned and run by the Momberg family since 1919. As you enter the gates leading to the farm you are met by the breathtaking vineyard-strewn Amphitheatre, which overlooks the Bottelary Hills and the upper reaches of the Devon Valley (press release).
The venue
We arrived at Middelvlei, greeted by a stately Great Dane and the guardian of the boerebraai, Merlot. After that warm doggy welcome, Thandiswa greeted us heartily from behind her mask. Although hidden, her smile was unmissable and a comforting sign of pure hospitality. After we sanitised our hands, we were free to choose one of their many remote outdoor tables. They all offered uninterrupted panoramic views across the farm and further afield to the mountain ranges.
We settled down to steaming mugs of strong boeretroos, freshly brewed over the coals, the delicious aroma of coffee beans floating on the breeze. A lovely spot of sun on our backs and I felt truly relaxed within a matter of minutes. We safely removed our masks to savour the warmness of the drink, whilst the tables behind us provided a soft, remote chatter as background.
Safety first
The tables were spread far and wide; Middelvlei’s grounds naturally lend itself to social distancing of the best possible kind. With ample space for the children to run around, play and explore, the wide expanse of lawn offers a refreshing al-fresco dining experience. In fact, with our backs to the tasting room, we didn’t have a single human in our sights for the whole afternoon.
I loved how the farmyard came to us. Loads of glossy chickens lazily peck at your feet, and here and there a naughty little calf breaks away from the grazing huddle of cows nearby, his curiosity getting the better of him. Merlot slowly does his rounds and spends a few minutes at every table, sunning himself next to your legs. Didi and Thandiswa runs the show like a well-oiled machine; swiftly tending tables as safely and carefully as possible.
Seating options
Make the most of the perfect Cape weather and sit outside on the sprawling verandah or on the grassy expanse around the tasting room whilst admiring the views. On colder days, the cozy fireplace inside will add extra warmth. The indoor seating have been arranged to comply with COVID-19 social distancing regulations and ample hand sanitiser is available.
The boerebraai experience
Our starter arrived. Hunks of potbrood with generous servings of butter, Ben’s homemade snoek paté and strawberry jam. It was simple; but absolutely beautiful in its simplicity. I couldn’t get enough of the cloud-soft bits of bread, slathered with melty butter and salty, herby snoek. I eased into the stillness of my surroundings, and appreciated the rare opportunity to experience something that felt almost like the old world we knew just a few short months ago.
Another cup of coffee later, and Didi arrived with laden arms – enamel dishes filled with braai meat, a trio of sides and a plank with braaibroodjies. This was one of those times I couldn’t click my shutter fast enough, as I was ready to tuck into the magic we have come to know is Middelvlei.
Didi made sure that we had everything we needed, keeping a safe distance behind her mask and making sure everything was spotless. She did this all wrapped up in her signature smile and vibrant personality.
The main event
Our generous lunch included fragrant chicken kebabs, the best boerewors I’ve tasted in a long time, crispy and fatty lamb chops. A gorgeous mixed greens salad, potato salad, pumpkin fritters and their signature braai broodjies. Our lungs filled with farm-fresh air, it would be apt to say our appetites were very much awake and raring to go!
I have to make an honourable mention here to the potato salad and to Ouma Annie’s pumpkin fritters. The potato salad instantly transported me back to my childhood summer Sunday braais with the aunts and uncles and cousins. We’d be playing in the pool on our floaties, the dogs keeping cool in the shade. My dad and uncle drinking beer next to the oil-drum braai, and my mom and aunt prepping the sides and salads. My first bite of Middelvlei’s potato salad turned back the clock a good 25 years ago in that instant, filled with the flavour of chopped eggs, tangy gherkins, fluffy potatoes and silky mayonnaise.
The pumpkin fritters were the absolute highlight. Fluffy, light pockets of intense pumpkin flavour, coated in a crunchy sugar and cinnamon jacket. They weren’t dense or oily as I have come to know pampoenkoekies; in fact, they were delicate desserts that left you astounded as your taste buds explode with the first bite.
Life was pretty magical in that moment.
Keeping the faith
Ben made his rounds over lunch, comfortably chatting to his tables from a distance and I picked up on the ease and familiarity with which he interacted. Here at Middelvlei, it’s all about family connections that extend way past blood bonds, and I couldn’t help but feel part of some greater good that afternoon.
Ben, as a wine maker and wine farm owner (among so many other things), is starkly aware of the COVID-19 regulations and subsequent alcohol bans. He is bracing the eye of the storm like so many thousands of others who find themselves in the same boat, with threatened livelihoods and dwindling hope. Through our chats, though, it became evident that he and the Middelvlei team are trying their utmost best to take things in their stride, roll with the ebb and flow of the regulations, each day as it comes.
It was uplifting to hear him talk of future projects and his hopes for the industry, even though our wine community continues to be crippled by the current reality.
To read my review on Middelvlei’s unoaked Chardonnay, please click here!
The details
At a cost of R265 per person, your boerebraai experience includes a starter and main course and is available to enjoy on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays between 12pm and 3pm. A low carb and vegetarian option are also available. For a nominal additional charge you can end your meal with a malva pudding and ice cream for dessert.
Whilst Mom and Dad are relaxing, the young ones can play in the sandpit, feed the farm animals, enjoy the open space on the kick bikes, or braai their own marshmallows. A special kiddie’s meal at R65 per child is available to ensure their tummies are kept full (and happy).
In conclusion
Our afternoon at Middelvlei was exactly what we had hoped for in our wildest dreams. A precious few hours where we could safely let our guard down, enjoy the fresh air and incredibly beautiful landscape, as well as honest food and great company. I can’t deny that I would’ve loved a glass of Middelvlei Pinotage or Shiraz to enjoy with my lamb tjoppie, but it was only a fleeting thought in passing.
Thank you, Ben and the Middelvlei team, for welcoming us as guests and waving goodbye to us as family.
Second photographer and photo credit: The Tall Hedonist, aka Timothy P. Gibson
Disclaimer: I was invited to this event in my personal capacity. There was no expectation for platform coverage in the form of a blog, or social media posts. This is my honest and truthful opinion and review thereof. All thoughts and opinions expressed herein are solely those of The Little Hedonist, given in good faith and in no way influenced by the company or its affiliates. All images, unless otherwise stated/credited, are also my own.
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